Guide to Walking the Camino de Santiago with a Dog

Why walk the Camino de Santiago with a dog?

If you are reading this that means you have made the first step towards realising your dream to walk the Camino with your best friend! That’s right, our dogs are more than just animals that we keep, their undying loyalty and affection make them the frontrunner to be a hooman’s best friend. You may have done plenty of trips – hiking trips, road trips, city breaks, running races(?) with your furry companion, so you naturally wonder, can you do this together? Or simply, the thought of leaving your buddy for weeks while you criss cross through the wonderful landscape of Northern Spain is too unbearable? Or your dog is a working dog and provides you with support and assistance?

There are many reasons why someone chooses to do the Camino de Santiago with their dog. Here we would like to help you on your journey, or if you are still on the fence about making the decision, we hope by the end of this you will have a much better idea (and we hope you’d say YES!)!

If you decide to go, I can guarantee that it will be an unforgettable experience, and it will further strengthen the bond between you and your buddy! Ultreia et Suseia!

Preparation stage

This is perhaps the most important part of the Camino as some of the decisions you make here will affect how your Camino will turn out to be! Having said that, the Camino tends to have a mind of its own. So also be flexible and open-minded, let the Camino take you where you need to be, which may not be the same as where you thought you’d want to be.

Which camino?

All roads lead to Rome Santiago, actually not always but we’ll come to that later! Traditionally the pilgrimage to Santiago begins from your home to arrive at the tomb of Saint James the Apostle in Santiago de Compostela, but many of us are not that fortunate! Did you know that there are at least 281 Caminos listed, encompassing more than 51,500 miles of routes through 29 different countries?

Among many things to consider when choosing which Camino to do with your dog, it’s important to note that to receive the pilgrimage certificate or the “Compostela“, the current rule states that you must walk the last 100km on foot or horseback, or the last 200km by bicycle along an officially recognised route. Therefore, many pilgrims choose to walk only the last 100km of the Camino.

Choose a route and length of Camino according to what you and your dog are used to, and adapt the Camino to suit your situation and capabilities. Here are some of the most popular routes of the Camino de Santiago.

Camino Francés (The French Way)

This is the most popular route, accounting for more than half the pilgrims arriving in Santiago, the majority of which start from Sarria. It spans for 790km starting from St Jean Pied de Port in France (popular amongst Northern Americans following the release of the film The Way) or Roncesvalles in Spain (popular amongst Spanish pilgrims) to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The alternative to this route is the Camino Francés por Aragón or Camino Aragonés which starts in Somport in the Spanish-French border in the Pyrenees and ends in the town Puente la Reina in Navarra, where it joins the main/more popular route starting from SjPdP/Roncesvalles. For those with limited time, “the last 100km” route starts from the town Sarria (116km).

In essence, there is NO hard and fast rule as to where one should begin their pilgrimage to Santiago, and pilgrims should refrain from making judgment against others and feeling more superior for having done longer distance, walking longer/faster or carrying heavier pack, etc.

As walking from Sarria is the minimum distance required to obtain a Compostela, it is an extremely popular starting point for many pilgrims! From young people who have full-time jobs and unable to take weeks off work to organised groups who aim to arrive in Santiago on specific days of religious significance. Tour operators have also started to offer organised packages for pilgrims walking with their dogs, with options of 5 or 6 days and the costs usually include accommodation and luggage transfer.

Here I have listed the pros and cons of walking the Camino Frances with your dog:

Camino Portugués (The Portugese Way)

The second most popular route after the Camino Francés, the full route stretches from Lisbon (616km), although the majority of pilgrims start in Porto, following the Central (260km) or Coastal (280km) routes, with the optional Spritual Variant (it splits off the main route at Pontevedra and rejoins in Padrón, takes 1 extra day, including the Traslatio boat trip). The last 100km starts from Tui/Valença (Central, 124km) or Vigo (Coastal, 100km).

Here I have listed the pros and cons of walking the Camino Portugués with your dog:

Camino Primitivo (The Original Way)

The pilgrimage to Santiago started back in the 9th century when, upon hearing of the discovery of the remains of St James the Apostle in Galicia, the Spanish King Alfonso II walked from his capital Oviedo with the Catholic Bishop to verify the remains. Afterwards he ordered a shrine to be built at the location of the discovery which became what we now know as Santiago de Compostela. Primitivo means the Origin, as it represents the Original Way taken by medieval pilgrims.

It is often regarded as the toughest Camino due to the frequent ascents and descents as pilgrims cross over the mountainous Asturias. Along with the Camino San Salvador which you can do in combination, this is the closest to the wild/natural Camino. A lot of the time you will walk on natural paths through forests or over the mountains, past small villages and towns. There is little road walking involved, the majority is towards the later stages in Galicia. The full route from Oviedo (321km) takes just under 2 weeks to complete, which is ideal for those who have to take annual leave/vacation days from work. This can be combined with Camino San Salvador (Leon to Oviedo) or Camino del Norte. Read our adventures on the Camino Primitivo here!

Here I have listed the pros and cons of walking the Camino Primitivo with your dog:

Camino del Norte (The Northern Way)

Starting from Irun in the Basque Country, this is one of the longest Camino (825km) and runs almost parallel to the Camino Francés. The route was popular during the time of Moorish invasion as routes further south were not as safe. Today, it is a popular alternative to the Frances for those seeking more scenic and less crowded route. There is a crossover to the Primitivo in Gijon and most people do choose the switch. It goes through some larger cities such as San Sebastian, Bilbao, and Santander and therefore pilgrims may have some difficulty finding cheap accommodation during peak seasons. There is also a fair bit of asphalt/road walking on this route.

Camino Inglés (The English Way)

One of the shorter Caminos, it starts in Ferrol (116km) or A Coruña (74km). Historically, the city of A Coruña was the port into which medieval pilgrims sailed from northern Europe, including the UK, hence the moniker. However, if you start in A Coruña and want to obtain a Compostela, you must combine this pilgrimage with another recognised route back home, for example some popular routes for British pilgrims include St James’ Way from Reading to Southampton, the Pilgrim’s Way from London or Winchester to Canterbury, or Finchale Camino Inglés from Finchale Priory to Gainford in County Durham.

Some say that the Camino Inglés is good for Camino newbies, as it gives you a taste of walking the Camino and can be easily combined with other non-walking holiday in Spain (or anywhere else!). However, it is quite a solitary camino and some traditional stop points may lack dog friendly accommodation. There is also quite a lot of road walking involved.

Via de la Plata

Some refer to this as the Thirstiest Camino, as it is the longest (1000km), with some unavoidable long stretches ranging between 30-40km, with no bars, and scorching sun as you walk through Andalucía and Extremadura. It splits in Zamora: one goes to Astorga where it joins with Camino Francés, and another becomes known as Camino Sanabrés as it continues to Santiago through Ourense, famous for its thermal springs.

The last 100km

I am putting a special category here for the last 100km. You either love it or hate it! The last 100km from Sarria is notorious for being like a human caravan. In 2021, over 30% of pilgrims arriving in Santiago started in Sarria! This accounts for more than half of those who arrive via Camino Francés. Various routes also merge with the Francés at various points between Sarria and Santiago (Primitivo in Melide, Norte in Arzua).

However, we all have busy lives and sometimes we are limited for time, so what can we do? Some pilgrims complete their Camino in stages, split over many years, especially if it is relatively easy for them to travel into Spain. However, the majority of pilgrims would like to “complete” their pilgrimage in one go, meaning arriving in Santiago.

If this is your first time emBARKing on a long-distance hike with your dog, it may be a good idea to have a shorter “taster” Camino. Our first Camino was quite an eye-opener and we tweaked some of the things we do to make for a smoother and more enjoyable future Caminos!

So here are some PAWssible “last 100km” routes:

• Sarria (Francés) – 116km (most crowded but most well supported, moderate paved roads)
• Tui (Portugués) – 124 km (less crowded, still good support, moderate paved roads)
• Lugo (Primitivo) – 100 km (have to say, this misses most of the best/highlights of Camino Primitivo), so we will contradict ourselves and recommend instead:
• Grandas de Salime (Primitivo) – 180km (crossing over from Asturias to Galicia at O Acebo, visit the Ethnology Museu at GdS, the Castro de Chao Samartín, the sacred font at Fonsagrada where St James allegedly performed a miracle, and the pilgrim hospital ruins at Montouto… all of this happens before Lugo)
• O Cadavo (Primitivo) – 130km (to complete the full Galicia section of Camino Primitivo)
• Baamonde (Norte) – 102 km (highlight is the monastery at Sobrado dos Monxes, this route will remain quiet until you join the Francés in Arzua)
• Ferrol (to complete the whole Camino Inglés) – 116 km (incentive will be to complete a “whole” Camino, BUT there is a lot of road walking, few pilgrims, and lack of dog friendly facilities in some of the stopping points)
• Ourense (Via de la Plata/Sanabrés) – 105 km (we haven’t looked into this very much but the thermal springs in Ourense is very appealing!)

Training and conditioning

These tips are valid for both hoomans/pilgrims/peregrinos and dogs/peRRegrinos.

You have to make sure you are comfortable walking/hiking between 20-30km per day, day in and day out for 1, 2, 4 weeks, or maybe more, depending on which Camino route you choose. If you want to carry your backpack all the time/most of the time, then factor that in too. It’s important to train with the backpack and weight you plan to carry.

Plan your training hikes/runs to also include hilly/mountainous areas. Strength and core training are also important – lunges and squats are good to tone your leg and bum muscles, planks/yoga/pilates are good for building up core strength. When you walk long distance for days, you will feel pain/soreness in muscles you never knew even existed! Also make sure to stretch before and after exercising, this is a good habit to start getting used to before you go on the Camino.

Mommy also feels that pilgrims walking with their dogs need to have a special “reserve” (we mean energy really, but money reserve is also good :p) just in case their dogs run into trouble.

Ideally physical training should start 6 months before your Camino (make good use of those winter months!), but 3-6 months is also good, and anything is better than nothing. During this time, take the time and effort to choose the right gear, try them on, return/replace them if they don’t fit.

This applies to:

• Footwear: sandals vs trainers/sneakers/tennis shoes vs trailrunners vs hiking boots? We can argue for days, there’s no right or wrong answer. But the most important thing is to choose one that fits you well. Visit the Orthotics if you need special modifications. Your feet health is one of the most important thing that will make or break your Camino. For Camino Francés/Portugués, pilgrims have walked in sandals, but I would recommend something sturdier for the Primitivo.
• Socks: again, topic of endless discussion amongst pilgrims. Synthetic vs natural, do I really need to spend that much money on merino? How many pairs to bring? The answer is, wear one that fits you! Ideally one designed for hiking as they tend to have extra support on the pressure points, and one that wicks away sweat as the main thing is you have to keep your feet dry to prevent blisters. Sometimes it is necessary to replace your socks in the middle of your walk, do that (which means having a clean extra pair at the ready).
• Backpack: size – this depends on whether you are planning to stay in public vs private albergue/pensions vs camping as the amount of gear you bring will vary. Some pilgrims with dogs will camp, although with the availability of dog friendly accommodation improving in recent years, most will not need to do so. How will you carry the dog food? After size, how you fit your backpack is also very important! We have seen many pilgrims, even those who think they are “seasoned” pilgrims, to wear their backpacks completely the wrong way and lead to unnecessary strains to different parts of their body. Visit your local outdoor store and ask for help with fitting, there are various resources on YouTube that show you how to fit your backpack too.

Things to consider for your dogs:

• Breed: Some dogs are more suited to outdoor adventure than others. Many dog breeds such as shepherd dogs, retrievers, and pointers have been bred for long hours of work in the outdoors and they would be purrfect companion for your Camino! On the other hand, despite having an abundance of short burst energy, greyhounds are more suited for sprint races and less so for long-distance hiking. Each dog has its own distinct personality and physical characteristics! That’s why we’re so special, no? However, I would not recommend taking a brachycephalic dog on the Camino. For these breeds, a combination of fast walk/short hike and warm temperatures can lead to breathing difficulties.
• Basic obedience training: Your pup should be able to follow basic commands such as sit and stay. A good recall is essential if you would want to let your pup off leash. A good “heel” walk is also important as you may be walking on roads/highway with little to no shoulder at all. Sometimes your pup will actually need to walk along the thin white line on the road! If you plan on using hiking poles (recommended on mountainous routes and if you are carrying your own pack), you may need to practice this at home – walking with poles and a dog on leash can be tricky, your pup will need to walk slightly ahead of you without pulling.
• Build up exercise gently! Both you and your pup can get fitter while getting ready for your Camino, isn’t that great? If your pup is usually the kind that likes to sleep on the sofa while watching you work, then of course you can’t expect him to turn into an ultra-marathon dog overnight? And neither can you! Build up your daily exercises gently, perhaps taking a slightly longer route, or run part of the way, or run uphill and downhill (the Camino is not flat!). On weekends, go on long hikes with your pup, aim for something between 10-20km with some altitude changes.
• Condition their paws: the many paved roads and sharp loose pebbles on the Camino are notorious to cause paw injury to our poor doggos. Also temperature can be quite hot especially in mid-late afternoon, regardless of which season you go. If you go in Spring time, most paws have softened during the winter months back home, so make sure you condition their paws. Regular runs on hard/paved surfaces are good. While on the Camino, I recommend products such as Musher’s secret – it forms a protective barrier to protect the paws from natural elements, while at the same being “breathable” and let your pups perspire.
• Nutrition: as you are training your pup, they will also need increase in nutrition! I recommend increasing your pup’s daily intake by about 50% during days of hard exercises, and observe if they lose/gain weight. If you have access to a good veterinary nutritionist, it’s a good idea to make an appointment.
  • Next, you’ll need to plan how you are going to bring your dog food on the Camino. If you are planning a short Camino, it may be possible to bring all the food with you, or you may wish to bring 4-5 days worth of food, and then buy more on the Camino. Larger cities will have pet shops and you may be able to find the same brand of food as what your pup is used to. It pays to do your research – Kiwoko is a national chain of pet shop and you can almost find one in every major city on the Camino. We also contacted our manufacturer and they kindly gave us a list of their stockists in Spain!
  • If you have booked your dog friendly accommodation in advance, it is possible to buy your dog food online and have it shipped to your accommodation, but before you do that make sure you communicate clearly with the owners. Finally, if you plan on using luggage transfer, you can ship ALL your dog food this way!
  • Remember, if you plan on switching brand so that you can find the same brand on the Camino, do so slowly and in increments, to give time for your pup to get used to. I am lucky that I have an easy going tummy, Mommy sometimes cooked on the Camino and she would give me extra portions of omelette, yumm!
• Special equipments: Harness +/- backpack +/- dog booties: so you have a strong working dog, who has more strength and stamina than your old bones? Lucky you! You might think of getting your dog to carry some of their water/treats, after all you may have done so in your local hikes? As with every other kit, whatever you plan to bring on the Camino, make sure they are well and properly tested. If they don’t fit, don’t bring it! I can’t get my backpack to fit well and they tend to chafe my armpit, also I like to jump into a river for a cool refreshing swim, so I tend to make the backpack wet and heavy, even if the contents were in waterproof bags! So now I just use a good harness that fits me well.
  • There are mix opinions on dog booties. They protect paws from getting burns from hot surfaces or blisters and lacerations from sharp surfaces. However, my paws became hot and sweaty when wearing boots for a long time and as a result I got blisters! The advice we received from the manufacturer was to wear socks under the boots to avoid friction, we didn’t find socks that fit in time for our second Camino, although now we do. So it remains to be seen, if I will join the dog booties club. Luckily with a lot of paw balm, my paws remained healthy throughout our 2nd Camino and the dog booties were like extra weight in Mommy’s backpack!
• Veterinary visit: You want to make sure your pup is at tip top health condition before you bring them on this epic journey. As well as getting up to date with immunisations, your pup may need added protection such as rabies vaccination (required for international travel) and protection against sandflies. They are vectors for leishmaniasis and although they are not present in the UK, they are endemic in areas of France and Spain in the summer months. I use Seresto collar which protect me from sandflies.

Insurance

Consider health/travel insurance for yourself, as well as pet travel insurance, this may already be covered by your standard pet insurance, but certain things to consider include:

• Cover for veterinary fees, excess, and limitations
• Third party liability: when someone is injured or property is damaged as a result of an incident with your dog
• Emergency repatriation, holiday cancellation, quarantine expenses, and loss of documentation

It is also a good idea to keep contact details of local vets along the Camino en route. Sometimes you will pass through small villages and you will need to take a taxi to the nearest larger town/city to find a vet. Keep all important documents in a waterproof ziplock bag.

How to get to the start point of the Camino

We have written an extensive guide on how to travel with a dog into and around the EU, you can find it here. More specific to the Camino, however, here are some options.

Drive to the start point of your Camino and leave your car there

Spain is a safe country and especially in the smaller towns and villages, people look out for each other. If your dog is >10kg, the easiest way to travel with them in Spain is in a car. You can ask your host if secured long-term parking can be provided, usually they charge a small fee like €5 per day. When you finish your camino, you can ask a friend to look after your pup for a few hours/a day while you take a bus/train back to your car. If you are a bit more daring, you can always find a place to park your car for free.

In Sarria: ask your hospitalero about secure parking OR park at Eroski supermarket. This was what my hospitalero recommended and we saw cars parked there for days even when the supermarket was closed. However, do this at your own risk. This supermarket is conveniently next to the bus station, so it is easy to pick up when you come back.

In Oviedo: there is secure multi-storey car park in the city, less than 10 minute walk from the Cathedral, which offers 2-week long-term parking for €45 (October 2022). I think this is as good as you can get. The car park has CCTV and is manned from about 0600-2200 everyday.

In other cities, if you search “parking gratuito” and type the name of the city on Googlemaps, you will usually find some good options.

Drive to Santiago and park your car there

Ideal if you are doing a short camino (5-7 days) and have a friend with you who can look after your pup. So you can drop off your friend and pup at your start point, drive to Santiago and park your car there. Beware that Santiago is a big city, and many on street parking areas have restrictions/limited to residents. A good, secured, multi-storey car parking in Santiago is Parking Xoan XXIII, it is very close to the Pilgrim Office and Cathedral, practically the closest you can park a car if you want to visit the Cathedral. There are 2 EV charging stations and as of late 2022 they were still free to use. Parking cost about €30/week. Minute by minute rate can be found here.

If you start in France…

If you start your Camino with your dog in France, either in St Jean Pied de Port, or further on such as Le Puy en Velay or somewhere along the way, that means you can take a train to your starting point! But after completing this epic weeks/months long journey, how can you get home? You can hire a car for a one-way journey and drop it off in Pamplona. From there you can get a taxi to SJPdP, there is regular taxi service for pilgrims between Pamplona and SJPdP. Alternatively, you can try BlaBlaCar, it is a ride sharing app, and it may surprise you but some drivers won’t mind giving a lift to someone with a dog. You may have to take several different ones, but it means more fun trips for you and your pup!

If you have a small dog (<10kg)

Then you should be able to go on trains in Spain with your dog, you shouldn’t have an issue here. But if there are specific issues you’d like to discuss, then feel free to contact us and we’d be happy to help!

What to pack?

Don’t forget any special medications your pup may need.

Mommy is a big fan of hands free leash that attaches to her waist/the waist strap of her backpack. So we are like twins joined at the hip!

Did you know there is a special credential for your canine friend? Brought to you by APACA, a non-profit working to protect animals in Spain, this means your pup can get their much deserved stamps/sellos to document your PAWesome Camino together! Visit their website to find where you can get hold of a credencial canina. Some dog friendly accommodations in popular starting towns (i.e. Sarria) may stock them, however if you are starting further afield you may have to order them online.

Should I use luggage transfer service?

Luggage transfer service has opened up the Camino to many pilgrims who would otherwise not be able to walk the Camino. It is a good option to consider for transporting all the extra equipment/food for your pup. There is no need to feel embarassed if you feel you need to do this!

It is a pilgrim specific service whereby someone will pick up your luggage in the morning from your accommodation and drop them off at your destination. So you and your pup will only need a small daybag! It does mean pre-booking at least the day before and therefore you will be tied to a pre-selected destination, as all your belonging will be waiting for you there! Most municipal albergues do not accept luggage transfer for 2 reasons: security (there may not be anyone present when the courier arrives to pick up/drop off luggage) and most of them operate a first come first serve/no reservation system, so you cannot cheekily “prebook” your space by forwarding your backpack by courier! However, except the municipal albergue in Borres on the Primitivo, we have not come across any municipal albergue which allows dogs.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Taxicamino (@taxicamino)

Sometimes you get a discount if you pre-book for the whole of your Camino, so if you are absolutely certain that you want to use this service for the whole of your Camino, then it may be worth it. However, we would advice to avoid entering all your destinations in one go, but rather keep updating them day by day by WhatsApp as to where to pick up/drop off. Otherwise, if there is any change to your plan, you will have to chase them to make sure they have the correct/updated information.

There is limited luggage transfer service in the off season (November – March) and most couriers will only operate from Sarria to Santiago during this period.

The Spanish national post (Correos) also offer a service (Paq Peregrino) where a pilgrim can send a self-addressed box containing their stuff to Santiago which they will hold for up to 45 days. If you need more than 45 days, Casa Ivar will hold your luggage for up to 60 days, no rush. This is useful for those who may have onward travel plans after their Camino and would want to switch to more appropriate attire 😀

During the Camino

So you have spent months training, planning, and preparing yourselves and your pups mentally and physically for this epic journey! Congratulations! Now let’s begin the adventure! Buen Camino!

Important numbers to save

The emergency number in all 27 EU member states is 112. AlertCops is a free mobile app provided by the Spanish government that allows you to contact the Police or Guardía Civil regarding dangerous situation you may have encountered, you will also be able to receive news regarding security risk, for example forest fire and any evacuation plans. What3Words allows you to share your location by uniquely identifying any location on earth down to the nearest 3 metres.

Where to stay

Different types of accommodation available to pilgrims on the Camino include municipal/public albergue, private albergue, and private pensions/hostals/hotels. Most municipal albergues do not accept reservation and/or luggage transfer whereas you can reserve your bed with the rest.

Some albergues have dormitory beds only while some may have private rooms with private or shared bathrooms. Hot water may be optional, or only available if you are one of the early arrivals! Kitchen can be anything from a simple microwave and a few donated/leftover utensils and a table (with no washing up sink!) to a large shiny commercial-style kitchen, fully equipped to cook up a feast! You may find ingredients leftover by previous pilgrims – while we appreciate condiments such as oil, salt, and pepper, or even dry pasta, I would not recommend unverified fresh food left in the fridge, however tempting they might be! Most albergues, municipal or private, will have laundry facilities, either handwash or machine wash +/- machine dryer (for a fee). Ironically, it may be tricky to find a place to hang your wet laundry if you stay in a hotel room as they expect guests to pay for their laundry service.

Dogs are increasingly accepted on the Camino as public perception is shifting. However, some places may put restrictions on size or where the dog is allowed to sleep, for example outdoors in a garage/shed or indoors but not inside the bedrooms. We have put together a list of dog friendly accommodation on various Caminos – the list is LIVE and constantly updated. If you know of an amazing place that is not on the list already, please let us know!

Camping

Some pilgrims with dog may choose to camp with their pups. Albergues with a garden space usually let pilgrims do this. The hoomans are then able to shower and use the kitchen facilities. There are also various campsites along the camino, although most are only open in peak season and closed after September. Wild camping or free camping in Spain is illegal, however there are some exceptions. It is always forbidden to camp on the beach or national parks and these areas are frequently patrolled by the Guardía Civil. If you find a nice spot to pitch your tent, always seek permission from the owner, they may ask for a small fee. When doing so, be discreet, pitch up at dusk and take it down at dawn and leave no trace behind.

Nutrition on the Camino

For human peregrinos, you need not worry at all on some Camino routes, especially the Frances which can look similar to a bar crawl. However, on some “wilder” Camino such as Camino Primitivo, Camino San Salvador, Camino Olvidado, and many other lesser walked routes, it may be crucial to take note of food/shop availability as you may need to stock up on a couple of days’ worth of food.

For lunch, there is the thrifty menu del día or menu peregrino, a 3-course menu which includes wine or soft drink, for about €12-15. If you are in a small town and the bars/restaurants observe traditional opening hours, they will stop serving lunch at approximately 2PM when they close for siesta. Spanish people don’t go out for dinner until about 9PM, which is already bedtime for pilgrims who want to start walking at 5AM, nightmare! However, after a menu del dia at the end of a walking day (i.e. a late lunch), Mommy often found that she wasn’t very hungry for dinner and a simple home cooked dinner in the albergue was more than sufficient. Some albergues which offer communal meal would serve this at more reasonable pilgrim hour of 7PM.

If you decide to cook, it is a good idea to get together with a few other pilgrims and share the meal. Certain staple foods like cheese, chorizo, and eggs are versatile and can be used for both dinner and next day’s breakfast and lunch! For example, eggs can be used to make carbonara for dinner, omelette for breakfast, and boiled eggs for lunch! I love it when Mommy cooks an omelette as she would make a plain one for me, drools…

Bear in mind Spain is a Catholic country and practically EVERYTHING is closed on Sundays. A lot of shops may only open for half a day on Saturday too. As you are approaching a weekend, start planning your food shopping a little bit more.

If you have a special diet such as vegetarian/vegan or gluten-free diet, then you need to do a bit more research, be prepared to carry some food with you and cook more. Luckily, the internet is awash with information so you should be able to find what you need. If you’re stuck, give us a shout and we’ll try our best to help! Mommy has a lot of friends…

What about MY (Fuji’s) food? Here’s a reminder of what you may have planned before.

Some dogs may not tolerate frequent changes in their diet, and combined with daily walks and constantly changing locations, some may find it a bit stressful and develop upset tummy. That is why it is important to be flexible and have an open mind.

Our pre- and post-hike routine

On the Camino, I get my PAWdicure twice a day, everyday! In the morning, Mommy would apply paw balm to protect my paws from the elements. She would then tickle me everywhere but this was apparently “warming up massage” before she put on my harness. She should also technically do some warm up stretches herself but sometimes she forgot.

At the end of our walk, she would do the same thing all over again in reverse. She would use my special towel (a small microfibre) to clean any dirt and mud, it is extremely effective given how small it is! Then she would apply more paw balm while checking for any injuries, and more tickles! She did remember to do her stretching post Camino, because otherwise her muscles will tense up and be all tight and lead to pain and injury! After shower she would do her laundry.

All the post Camino routine usually takes 1.5-2 hours! By the time she was finished, I would be fast asleep, dreaming of the wonderful places I had just walked, and the chorizo and tortilla I stole from pilgrims earlier. Gosh, pilgrims are so gullible, they can’t stand my puppy eyes!

Walking a busy route and dealing with local dogs

A camino that is too crowded is not ideal for your pup. They may get overstimulated, too many well-intentioned pilgrims would want to play and they end up overexhausting themselves. The more crowded it is, the more likely your dogs will come across pilgrims who do not like dogs and both of you may end up in a sticky situation.

The general advice from many other peRRegrinos and their hoomans, is to set off early – this has the dual benefits to avoid warmer temperatures (temperature on paved roads can be much higher than ambient temperature) and more pilgrims. In the Sarria-Santiago route, some pilgrim groups are so large that they are put in accommodations outside the Camino, and every morning they are dropped off on the Camino. This is usually after their breakfast, so it won’t be after 7-7.30AM. If you leave at least an hour before the main crowd then you should be able to stay ahead of the caravan.

We would also advice to avoid July and August if you are planning to walk with your dogs as the temperatures will be too high. Having said that, there had been heat wave even in May/early June in 2022, with heavy downpour in between cycles of heat wave. If the temperatures are too hot for you and your pup then it’s not too late to escape to the seaside like San Sebastian!

Our idea of the Camino is being able to appreciate nature and time spent together. So, except for the obvious: walking on roads, crossing a junction, walking in town, Mommy would like to be able to set me off leash as much as possible. Hence we are not a fan of crowded camino.

One of the more frequently asked questions is regarding local dogs. They tend to be very protective of their home and some can be quite aggressive. Most of these guard dogs will be chained but some may not, and some may escape their gates. I think it’s best to ignore them and they usually stop being interested at your pup once you are far away enough from their “home”. A small number of local dogs will be pets, sometimes we come across a bar owner or hospitalero with dogs. They are used to pilgrims and dogs so they tend to be quite friendly. Again, approach with caution, and if the 2 dogs appear to be on friendly terms, you can allow them to say hello and play with each other.

A word of caution to pilgrims: please do not feed local dogs! They may not have a collar/tag but they are not stray dogs, they belong to someone. If you feed them, they may follow you for a long distance and then they will get lost!

I (Fuji) only had 2 minor bad experience with local dogs: being chased by an aggressive dog and had one dog trying to bite my neck! Luckily I managed to escape and that dog only managed to grab my Seresto collar. These are just 2 minor incidents over hundreds of kms of Camino walked and many friendly local dogs, I even broke a doggo’s heart once (!) he was a hospitalero’s dog and he would come down to my window asking for a playdate. I beat him at football though, wish our hooman professional teams could do that!

After the Camino

Congratulations! You have made it to Santiago de Compostela!!! What an amazing achievement! For us, we love Santiago. We have been there a few times, and each time had been unique and special in their own way. I have read that to some pilgrims however, the experience can be slightly underwhelming. I hope this is not the case for you though, so here are our tips to help you enjoy your stay in Santiago.

Things to do in Santiago with your dog

So you’ve arrived in Praza do Obradoiro, had all your photos taken in front of the Cathedral with your friends, and thrown your stinky backpack on the ground. What next?

Get your Compostela at the Pilgrim’s Office. They operate an online registration system, whereby your hoomans need to put in their details online, preferably the day before their arrival. If they have registered, then they can go straight in and consult with the security guard to get a ticket. With this ticket in hand, you can decide if it’s time for some cold Estrella or café con leche. We have arrived early morning (no queue) and early afternoon (also no queue, but this was mid October “shoulder” season). So Mommy had always stayed on to process the Compostela. If the queue is very long, you can track the progress online and come back later.

Who will look after me in the mean time? Mommy has always had friends who would mind me outside the Office while she processed her Compostela. The Pilgrim’s Office also has a little cloister garden and with permission, your pup may be able to wait there, accompanied, while one of you get your Compostela. If you arrived in Santiago late and coming to the Office the next day for your Compostela, you may be able to leave your pup at your accommodation.

Attend mass at the Cathedral, visit the tomb of St James. Like doh, isn’t that the aim of the pilgrimage? 😀 You can’t bring your backpacks into the Cathedral, so if you haven’t checked in at your accommodation yet, there are places where you can store your backpack such as the Pilgrim House or with Correos, all conveniently located minutes away from the Cathedral. There is English speaking mass held at the Pilgrim’s Office Chapel at 10.30AM everyday.

If for whatever reason, you could not obtain a Compostela, but would like a little memento of your Camino, you can visit the Saint Francis Church, just round the corner from the Pilgrim’s Office. They can provide you with a little certificate called the Cotolaya. In 2022, the church was open between 10 AM-12PM and 5-7PM.

Dog friendly parks in Santiago… you may be tired, your feet may be full of blisters, and yet your pup is still full of energy and wants to go for a walk! But you’ve just walked across Spain! We like the Parque de Belvis (Belvis = Bella Vista and it is indeed beautiful) facing the Seminario Menor and the Convento de Belvis (where you can buy cakes from the nuns). We also like the Parque da Alameda, officially dogs are allowed off leash, although it can get a little crowded so I stayed attached to Mommy, there is a gorgeous view of the Cathedral spires from here.

For some style, you can wash your pilgrim clothes in the beautiful lavanderia on Rua das Hortas 10. Just make sure you set a timer or you maybe too busy relaxing in the beautiful garden that you forget to pick up your clothes! If you are looking for a memorable souvenir to document this amazing journey, your own personal Compostela, head over to Zamo Tamay. He is an artist that makes personalised souvenirs for pilgrims. He’d love to meet your pup and it helps if you can speak a bit of Spanish and summarise your trip for him, as it might inspire him to draw/write something unique to you both.

Now onto my favourite topic, food! There is no shortage of option for eating out, here are some of my dog friendly favourites! For breakfast, head to Dolche Cafe, a women owned LQBTQ+ and dog friendly establishment. They even gave me some treats/breakfast of my own while Mommy enjoyed her pancakes! Another dog friendly breakfast place is Lusco y Fusco Bakery Cafe, try their cinnamon buns!

You may have read about the Mercado de Abastos, Santiago’s food market? The market is divided into blocks that sell fresh vegetables, cheese, cured meats, and my favourite: the restaurants! As the restaurants are semi-outdoor, I was free to roam as long as I stayed calm. You can choose where you would like to eat, or for more upscale experience, head over to Abastos 2.0. They have 2 sections: Barra and Mesa (awarded Michelin Bib Gourmand). Reservation is necessary. The Barra is like a tapas bar with a single long indoor table and a few outdoor tables. I was allowed to sit inside! Mommy recommends going for the surprise menu, they focus on traditional and locally inspired “raciones”.

We stayed at dog friendly A Tafona do Peregrino (they also offer a special pilgrim rate), Mommy likes the stone walls and high ceilings and during the shoulder season the price was very reasonable! The place is perhaps more famous for it’s Michelin starred Restaurante A Tafona by famous chef Lucía Freitas. She has also recently opened the more informal Lume in the Mercado de Abastos, don’t forget to try her “liquid empanada”! Further down the road near Parque de Belvis is O Sendeiro, set in a renovated old building. They have a cozy inner courtyard, food is so yum, and I was allowed in the terrace and the bar area. Other recommended dog friendly eateries that we have yet to try are Cafe de Altamira and the Italian restaurant L’Incontro. It is refreshing that for a city that rains a lot, there are plenty of options where I can sit inside with Mommy!

APACA

We have mentioned earlier that your mutt can aso collect sellos on their own credencial canina. Now that you have arrived in Santiago, where can fido get their canine Compostela? I would recommend messaging APACA via Whatsapp as they recently relocated their office. If you are not able to attend in person, you can also mail your credencial and send them a photo of your arrival in Santiago, and they will post your Compostela by mail. I do recommend visiting them in person if you can, as it was interesting to speak with the owners and see the works that they do, they have also published Codex Canini, a manual about doing a pilgrimage with dog and how to live together with animals.

Post-Camino R+R

You may wish to unwind and process everything you have experienced in the last few days/weeks/months with your pup. Once all the fun and excitement, the parties and celebrations with your camino family are done, what to do next? Pilgrim House is a favourite of ours. They offer guided reflection sessions as well as DIY self-reflection areas. I would recommend discussing with the volunteer on site beforehand, we were allowed to stay in the front room as long as I stayed accompanied and leashed.

You may want to head over to the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death): Finisterre (Fisterra) and Muxia. We haven’t walked the Camino Finisterre yet as Mommy cheated and drove there (!) but who can blame her, she had been walking for 3 weeks by then and the forecast was a full week of torrential rain. Finisterre or “Finis Terrae” meaning literally “Land’s End” or “The End of the World” as the Romans believed it to be. Pilgrims enjoy watching the sunset by the lighthouse or go for a swim in the Playa de Langosteira (Langosteira beach). We stayed in Hotel Bella Fisterra, their back garden opens up directly to the beach! I was provided with a cozy bed, bowls for water, and a little toy! There was also EV charging station in the car park. Each room was individually named after a literary character, for example Moby Dick, and you would find the corresponding novel inside.

If you have a car and another day or two to spare in Galicia, we highly recommend going on a little roadtrip to explore the Rias Baixas region. You can visit a view wineries and try some Albariño, our favourite was Pazo de Rubianes. It is a large manor house with beautiful garden maze. Dogs are allowed in the garden. You have the option for a guided or self-guided tour of the garden, and degustacion is held in one of their cellars. Our favourite place to stay is Quinta de San Amaro. The hotel is set over a few traditional Galician stone houses, the area was quite lush with plenty of trees and flowers. They have converted a horreo (Galician granary storage building) into a yoga/meditation studio, very cozy! There is an outdoor pool, Mommy booked a massage, and dinner was one of the best we had in Galicia! The cherry on top was that they didn’t charge extra for pet. A stay at this place includes tour and degustacion to a local winery called Paco y Lola. If you stay longer, it will also include tour at Pazo de Rubianes.

Planning your next camino

Hopefully you have enjoyed your Camino with your dog! To some, it’s a once in a lifetime experience, but many others become camino addicts, like us! You may find that as soon as you arrive home, you start thinking of going away again, this is a common feeling.

Which Camino should you do next? Here are some ideas!

• If your first Camino was a short one (one week from Sarria-Santiago or Tui-Santiago), you might want to be more adventurous and try the 2-week Primitivo.
• Go on the same Camino but try a different season! We recommend spring or autumn for camino with a dog. The sights, smells, and vegetations are completely different!
• Try stopping at different places and therefore you will see and experience different things. Don’t rush.

We’d love to hear about your Camino with your dog! Please leave us a message.