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Camino Primitivo with a dog, day 2: Grado to Salas

Camino Primitivo Day 2: Grado to Salas

After a great first day, Mommy again head off in the dark, about an hour before dawn. This was partly because Spain, especially the western part, is in the wrong time zone! One of the big differences between a Spring vs Autumn Camino is that in autumn, the daylight is much shorter, the sun didn’t rise until almost 8AM.

Route overview and statistics

Distance 24.5 kmAverage speed 4.4 kph
Maximum altitude 361 mAscent 692 m
Minimum altitude 39 mDescent 509 m

It was another pleasant walking day today, there were few ups and downs but the ascent was more long and steady climb, nothing too steep or strenuous. It was a mix of quiet countryside roads (paved) and forest trail. If you leave Grado before breakfast, there will be opportunity for coffee breaks in Cornellana (10 km from Grado) or Casazorrina (20 km from Grado).

Leaving Grado

We left in the dark, about an hour before dawn. The town streets were well lit and we passed by a bus stop where workers were getting on a bus presumably to Oviedo for work. Leaving Grado on the south side of the town, the Camino turns off the main road after Coviran minimarket into a small road, and immediately turns to the right to join a gravel track road called Calle la Podada de Arriba, arriba means “up” and from here you will start climbing out of Grado (the first ascent on the elevation profile above).

All that effort was worth it though, as we were rewarded with this amazing view from the top, looking down towards the town we just left. Suddenly there was a queue of pilgrims taking photos from the top of the hill, Mommy didn’t realise there were THAT many pilgrims on this Camino before!

As we walked through the village San Marcelo, we saw a large overhanging fig tree, the fruit was very fresh and sweet! I also met a new local friend who was such a friendly pup. Can’t remember what we talked about, probably what he had for breakfast because I was starting to feel a little peckish!

Cornellana

Cornellana is also known as the salmon capital of the Asturias, although we didn’t know this before! As you are approaching the town, there are 2 options: first is to cross the bridge (Ponte de Corniana) and then immediately take the footpath to the left (Paseo del Rio Nonaya). This will lead you down a beautiful riverside walk and straight to the Monasterio de San Salvador. If you are hungry and would like some refreshments, however, then you can continue straight on after the bridge and follow the main road into town. Once you are rejuvenated, take a left turn down Avenida José Maria Caballero towards the Monastery.

The monastery, which dates from the 11th century, has a hostel for pilgrims, which is accessed through the Puerta de la Osa, named after the Romanesque doorway which shows “a bear nursing a girl” and guarded by two nocturnal birds. To me, it looked more like the bear was attacking the girl! But apparently the local legend says that Infanta Cristina, founder of the monastery, was protected and nursed by a bear when she, as a little girl, became lost in the forest. She was the daughter of King Bermudo II of León and Queen Velasquita, and she retired to this convent after the death of her husband Ordoño.

The monastery accepts pilgrims with dogs too, according to Gronze dogs will have to stay in the courtyard, but my fur buddy told me that out of the 4 dormitory rooms, one room with bunk beds is allocated to pilgrims with dogs.

The Camino continues via a path that goes behind the monastery before turning right and uphill (of course) to the town Sobrerriba.

Casazorrina

Here the Camino follows a forest trail that runs alongside the river Nonaya. It was nice to be in the shades, we saw various wild mushrooms although Mommy had no clue if they were edible or not.

We also passed by a fountain called Fuente Caliente, I tried it, the water was just tepid. However, my paws were wet and afterwards they picked up some sharp dirt/rubble that ended up giving me thin lacerations on 1 paw. It was a bit sore, and I was limping but luckily Mommy saw that immediately, she wiped my feet dry and I felt much better!

The next hamlet we encountered was Casazorrina, this was merely 3 km from Salas, our final destination for the day. But we didn’t stop in Cornellana earlier so by now, Mommy needed something cool. We saw a private albergue here, La Figal de Xugabolos. It’s quite a long name and it’s the only accommodation in Casazorrina, so we shall refer to it as the “albergue in Casazorrina”. And what a lovely place it was! It has a large garden with various outdoor games, a little swing, a hammock, table footie machine… Mommy almost didn’t want to get up again. She asked for her new favourite, café con leche con hielos, and her friend asked for Aquarius, also with hielos. As for me, I got a bowl of icy cold water, with plenty of ice cubes (it was lost in translation, but I welcomed the ice cubes!).

Medieval town of Salas

We entered the medieval town of Salas under blazing sunshine. It had been a market day, but the vendors were packing up already. The two imposing buildings in this town are located around the main square: the Colegiata de Santa María La Mayor and the Castillo de Valdés Salas.

The 16th century castle building is now a boutique hotel, and it is linked to the Torre de los Valdés, constructed in the 15th century via a semicircular arch bridge. The Valdés Salas was an important noble family, the most famous member was Fernando Valdés Salas who founded the University of Oviedo. His mausoleum can be found in the opposite church, the Colegiata de Santa María La Mayor.

Salas is the traditional stopping point for stage 2 of the Camino Primitivo. We continued walking under the arch bridge to the edge of the town, towards our albergue. And Mommy was very excited!

Accommodation and cost

After watching YouTube video and reading their story on Gronze, Mommy had already decided that we would stay in Casa Sueño when we did our Camino Primitivo! It’s a hotel/albergue/bar/restaurant and located right on the Camino, but as you are leaving the town of Salas. The albergue itself is housed in a separate self-contained building with a large glass window (see photo below). It has 7 bunk beds in one room, and the albergue is complete with kitchen and washer/dryer. The design is modern and minimalistic, Mommy likes it!

Next to the albergue is the hotel and restaurant. Mommy’s friend already booked us a room there. They have double/twin and triple rooms, all with en suite bathrooms. The room felt very clean and the bed was oh so comfy. When making reservation, be specific if you want to stay in the hotel or albergue. Ironically, the night we stayed there, the albergue was completely empty but the hotel was full! You can review their pet friendly policy here.

Source: Casa Sueño

The hotel often hosts a culinary night, such as paella night or pizza night. We didn’t have that on the one night we stayed, but they offered Mommy about 10 different versions of cachopo, an Asturian delight! It’s a combination of meat, ham, and cheese (Mommy particularly likes the cabrales), but it is NOT cordon bleu, please don’t say that to an Asturian! The chef also made very good chips, I can attest to that, because I had some a lot! No wonder after walking 25 km and some chips, it was time for me to have a siesta under the sun. I liked the texture of the gravel, like I could get a head massage while I slept. Oh, I got given my own bed and bowls at the hotel!

Mommy’s friends came and joined us for lunch, they had snack/drinks because some of them were walking another 7 km to Bodenaya (they were locos).

This was a bit of a splurge day. The historic town centre, the clean and comfy bed, and the food… it felt like we were on holiday and not on Camino Primitivo! Mommy’s wallet felt that too. Cost: albergue dorm €17/person, hotel double/twin €65/room.

There is also another pet friendly albergue in town, Albergue La Campa.

Reflection at end of day 2

It was another good day walking! We had good weather, Mommy’s leg pain was improving as she started using her hiking poles, and because I had so much empathy I also scratched my paw on something sharp so I could share Mommy’s pain, literally. She was pawesome though because she brought my first aid kit, so she would clean and apply antiseptic to my lacerations, then sprayed a soothing aloe vera spray.

Tomorrow will be another day!